How To Mix Denim With Tailoring

How To Mix Denim With Tailoring

Denim and tailoring have not always made the best dance partners. One cut its teeth on railroads in the American Midwest, built for dust, rivets and honest labour; the other spent much of its life in boardrooms, dining rooms and the sort of establishments where someone else takes your coat. Put them together carelessly and the results can feel at best confused, and at worst like you got dressed in the dark.

For years, the default styling rule was simple: denim was casual, tailoring was smart, and never the twain should meet. A sharp suit demanded sharp trousers, a crisp shirt, the immutable silk tie, while jeans were the bookend to trainers or rugged boots, and T-shirts. The trouble with rigid rules, however, is that they tend to age badly.

 
 

Today, both sides of the equation have changed. At Oliver Spencer, our jackets are soft, unstructured and designed to be an elevated extension of your casual wardrobe. They are cut to look considered, but never overworked; the sort of tailoring that moves through an entire smart-casual spectrum of events, with small styling tweaks re-directing the sartorial mood.

On the other side of the question, denim. When you pick up an Oliver Spencer denim garment and feel it in your hands, you'll double-take. This is not the stiff, rugged cloth of jeans and western jackets - it's fluid, crafted from soft cotton or organic cotton, boasting movement and a natural drape.

Take the Westall utility trouser in indigo. Its straight-leg shape and workwear roots provide useful contrast against a softly constructed Westbury jacket, or it can be combined with the matching Buffalo jacket for a contemporary spin on a two-piece. Rather than attempting to mimic a suit, the combination lets each piece do its own thing: the jacket brings shape and refinement; the denim contributes texture, depth and a little healthy irreverence. Wear it with a clean white T-shirt or a navy New York Special shirt, and suddenly “smart casual” stops being an anodyne descriptive.

The Brook shirt in Faye indigo makes the case from another angle. In an 80% cotton and 20% pre-consumer recycled cotton blend, it brings denim’s familiar character to a lighter, easier layer. Under a navy or charcoal Westbury jacket, it is more interesting than a conventional formal shirt but considerably more composed than a tee. 

The indigo-dyed Harrison jersey jacket, Double Breasted Jacket and Bradwell Jacket in Faye indigo all offer a softer way into the denim look, which you can break up with trousers in ecru, cream or white, letting the different textures create the interest. Denim works best here not because it is trying to be traditional tailoring. That's the point. Good denim and good tailoring no longer occupy opposite ends of the wardrobe; they share a preference for dependable cloth, flattering proportions and clothes that improve through wear. The trick is simply to avoid treating the pairing as a novelty.

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