Winter 25: Designer’s Notes

Winter 25: Designer’s Notes

My Winter 25 collection is one of quiet Beatnik rebellion, conjuring up the image of an artist who has just stepped out of a 1950s Greenwich Village café and into 2025 London. I’ve taken the textures I love and pushed them further. Soft wools blended with mohair or baby alpaca soften the shoulders of every jacket and coat, so even the sharpest silhouette feels like it’s somehow out of focus. Against that softness I’ve laid brutalist shades – concrete greys, slate, rust – then cracked the whole thing open with sudden hits of pink, teal and raspberry. It’s colour as punctuation, not decoration.

Outerwear is where the attitude lives. The double-breasted Big Coat in mohair is deliberately oversized for a nonchalant attitude that you can layer over a chunky roll neck for instant gravitas. For something sharper, the raw-cut Norton Jacket in leather is my new favourite. I wear mine with the Orsman Trousers – wide, pleated, and cut from a heavy wool that drapes beautifully. Tuck in a denim Western shirt and you’ve got a smart urban look that has a rough polish.

 
Oliver Spencer Men's Taupe Double-Breasted Wool Trench Coat Flat Shot
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Tailoring this season is about ease inside structure. The new Westbury Jacket – two buttons, broad lapels – is a great anchor for a relaxed approach to suits and separates. Again, let the fabrics to the talking and styling becomes that much easier. In shirting, our checked shirts use soft geometric colours to create subtle contrasts in your layering. This isn’t a collection of loud statements – it’s an integrated wardrobe of quiet contrasts. Softness inside rigour, precision worn with nonchalance. Put it on, move through the city, and let the clothes do the talking.

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